Aden! Part Duex

When one thinks of Yemen, three distinct thoughts come to mind, especially since December 25th, 2009: Hot, al-Qaeda and that one “Friends” episode where Chandler lies about moving to Yemen to escape a girl. One typically does not think of fun, surf, green mountains, ancient civilizations, warm people and hidden mysteries.

Without leaving the ideology infused capital of Sana’a, one may actually forget the rich heritage, cultural diversity and distinct progressions that have taken root throughout the country. Afrah, a wonderful Arab friend of mine,  recently wrote, “Visitors who only stay in the capital don’t get the full picture of the country’s diversity. Looking forward to read(ing) about the other cities you visited as well. I hope Aden and the other cities can maintain the diversity of our country and not “melt” in the northern tribal “pot” as has been the trend lately.”

I could post about this problem for hours, as I have spent countless hours reading about, speaking on and observing this very phenomenon. However, no one wants to be bored. So instead, I will continue with a photo journal, as it is always easier on the eyes to stare at pictures instead of words. Hopefully, some of that cultural diversity will shine through.

So what has this to do with the picture above? Pick your own metaphor. I am sure it will function. I can think of a few of my own, but none good enough to put into words. I just really like the picture.

Thus far in the journey into the heart of Aden, I have focused on the city and culture, avoiding the beach experience. Time to rectify this glaring omission.

The Beach.

The Palms.

The Coral.

The Burn.

But the beach was not all there was to see and do. The fish market and fisherman’s docks were fantastic as well.

However, the ancient cisterns truly caught my attention. While it is not accurately known when the cisterns were created, with some estimates placing their construction in the time of the Queen of Sheba, or during the Himyarite Kingdom, while others have proposed more conservative estimates of the Rassulid period. Regardless, they were rediscovered by the colonial British in 1890′s, and repaired for the irrigation and consumption of the area. Although no longer in use, they still present a stunning testament to the ingenuity of the ancients, and the Victorian desire to assist where damage was typically the result.

After following what can only be described as a ‘silly folly of youth mistake’ by climbing up the side of a cliff to get above the cisterns in 40 degree heat, I managed a half grin/half grimmiace as I looked over the crater which now serves as downtown Aden.

But it was not all hard work. After dishes of fresh Shark and Yemeni tea ice cream, we could always find a new vantage within the city to sit with locals and chat as the sun went down.

I think it is safe to say I was excited to put my feet in the Gulf of Aden.

However, eventually we had to begin the journey back to Sana’a. There was sadness.

Especially as we re-entered the desert.

And, as always, the song. It may not be new, but it makes me feel good. What more can one person ask for from life

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~ by maffersalmon on March 28, 2010.